Hair

From our heads to our toes, hair is something that is part of every body. For something that everyone naturally has in some capacity, people read a lot into the hair we have and what it might say about us.

Hair is very gendered and different styles and sites on the body are typically considered by society to be either ‘male’ or ‘female’, but just like any other body part, it’s people who have genders, not our physical characteristics.

That said, when it comes to gender affirmation, what we do with our hair can sometimes be helpful. Altering your head and body hair can be read by others as a clear gendered marker. We also know that it can be very distressing when hair falls out, for people of all genders but particularly for women who are trans.

Like many other traits that are assumed to be gendered, hair is complex, but is also almost always a temporary change, and so can be a place for experimentation and discovery.

The hair on our heads

Illustration by Samuel Luke Art

Illustration by Samuel Luke Art

The thing we most often think of when we say our ‘hair’, the hair on our heads can be a form of self expression, and can be an indicator of personality, and identity. The hair on our heads is bound by cultural ideas of gender and presentation, but these ideas are constantly shifting and changing. It’s not as simple as short hair being masculine, and long hair being feminine

Hair is also a great place to experiment with social gender affirmation, as changing hair can be a somewhat low-invasive process, and will typically grow back. Growing out or cutting short your hair is a great way to do something that is gender affirming without being out or public about other aspects of your life or gender, and it’s now quite normal for people of all genders to have all sorts of styles and lengths.

When going to a new stylist, hairdresser or barber, it can be helpful to take a picture of the hairstyles you’re interested in, rather than trying to describe it in words. Asking other trans people you know for recommendations can also help you to find someone who is trans-friendly.

Wigs

There are many reasons why someone might want to wear a wig, whether temporarily or longer term, trans or cis, and of any gender.

As with many other gender affirmation supplies, you’ll likely get what you pay for. For wigs that are more realistic, fit better, are hand styled, and have more natural hair fibres (including potentially human hair), the price will be higher than wigs that don’t have these features.

It’s really important to not try and force a wig to fit - if it feels too loose or tight when you try it on, it means it doesn’t fit. Finding something that fits and feels right is the key to having a wig that you will will be able to wear and feel great in.

Women’s Health Boutique have a guide to finding and styling a wig, which includes a similar fitting instruction diagram:

The hair on our faces

Most facial hair is read by society as a masculine attribute, even though many cis women (as well as people of all genders) have varying amounts of facial hair.

As a result, facial hair can actively work against self-affirmation when a person does not want to be read as masculine. Hair removal can be easy and reversible, if wanted. Find out more in the hair removal section below.

For those who want to appear more masculine, facial hair can be a way to flag that to others. A common outcome of masculinising hormonal affirmation is facial hair growth, but there are ways to give the appearance of facial hair without needing to be on hormones, if you don’t want to be.

If you do have existing facial hair, or you’re starting to grow it in, shaving won’t necessarily make it grow back thicker or darker - the stubble may appear that way though because the ends are blunt rather than tapered, and that might feel great.

Facial hair dyes or mascara can be effective if you have growth that is quite light or blonde, but may not work so well if you have little to no existing hair. There’s no reason not to give it a go to see for yourself though, just be careful not to stain your face with dye (it will come off fairly quickly so don’t worry too much).

The hair on our bodies

If you think people will be paying close attention, you can prepare an innocuous explanation — it’s for sports, it feels more comfortable with your clothing, you've decided to stop shaving your armpits because you don’t think it’s necessary.

Scarleteen

Body hair is a normal and natural part of having a human body, and has a range of positive effects and qualities.

Current beauty standards state when women, men and non-binary people should or shouldn’t have hair in specific places, which reflect current cultural expression, and not anything intrinsic to gender or a gendered experience.

No one is less of a woman for having body hair, or less of a man for not having body hair.

Modifying or changing body hair though can be a way to fit into, or feel affirmed by some of those gendered norms, especially at specific workplaces or institutions. Some forms of hormonal affirmation can increase and decrease body hair growth, which you can find more about here. If you are interested in hair removal, see the section below.

Hair removal

People engage in hair removal for all sorts of reasons, including comfort, gender affirming reasons, habit or tradition, for sport, because they feel like they are required to, or just because it is wanted.

Hair removal is fine if it’s something you want to do, or will find affirming, but no one else has the right to demand or require you to have your hair in any particular way, including partners, family, doctors, or strangers. This can be complicated in some circumstances, such as workplaces with policies about how to wear body hair. For information about affirming your gender at work, head here.

There are many different methods of hair removal - temporary and permanent.

Shaving

Shaving involves safely passing a razor across the skin to cut the hair that is present there. Shaving is a temporary hair removal method.

Shaving is the most cost effective form of hair removal, especially for facial hair, with modern razors containing a range of features for safety and comfort. Razors can be bought in packs of multiples for a few dollars, and those with more features can range from $10-$50.

Electric razors, some of which can be used without water, can be bought at appliance and speciality shaving shops and online from $40 to over $100 for fancier models. There is often no difference between the razors marketed towards men and women, other than the colour and the cost.

For some people, shaving can have a role in affirmation, as shaving one’s face or body fits in with the cosmetic rituals of your gender, and for others it can be a giant pain, or a process that just feels necessary. Shaving isn’t meant to be painful, but can lead to irritation of the skin, especially for sensitive skin. Make sure you wash and warm your face prior to shaving, use soap, gel or cream to shave and a toner or aftershave when finished.

Waxing

Waxing involves some form of wax being applied to the skin, allowing it to set slightly and then quickly removing it to take any hair with it. This can be quite a painful process, especially at first. Waxing is a temporary hair removal method.

Waxing can be done yourself with products available at supermarkets or pharmacies for between $10-50, or by a professional at a salon, which depending on the body part/s being waxed can cost between $30-150.

Epilation

Epilation involves a device which mechanically pulls hair out from the root. This can be quite a painful process, especially at first. Epilation is a temporary hair removal method.

Epilation can be done by yourself with a speciality device called an epilator. These can be bought at appliance and speciality shaving shops, or online from $30-$150 or more.

Laser

Laser hair removal involves using a laser that emits a specific wavelength of light, which heats up the melanin that pigments hair. This process can also heat any hairs still on the surface and cause the skin to feel warm. The process can be quite painful.

Laser treatment will either permanently remove hair, or reduce the density of hair, which may require ongoing treatments. Sessions can cost anywhere from under $50 to well into the hundreds of dollars, depending on the body part being treated, how dense the existing hair is, and how many sessions are required. Some services provide a discount when multiple sessions are undertaken.

Redness and swelling during the day after treatment is possible, but any more serious side effects should be discussed with a doctor.

Electrolysis

Electrolysis involves applying a direct current to a hair follicle, which damages the immediately surrounding cells, stopping the hair from being able to grow in future. Electrolysis works on all skin types and colours. The process can be quite painful.

Electrolysis permanently stops hair growth in the follicle, but due to the time required to undergo it, it can take multiple sessions to remove all the hair across a part of the body. There are three types of electrolysis: galvanic electrolysis, thermolysis, and a blend of the two.

Sessions tend to cost between $80-$150 per hour, though can end up being cheaper for longer bookings or paying for multiple sessions at once.

Redness, swelling and soreness after treatment are possible, but any more serious side effects should be discussed with a doctor.